You've just bought a mohair sweater from the 80s but you're still hesitating to wash it?

Over the last 40 years, we have lost the concept of care. Simply because modern clothes are of poor quality and do not withstand many washes.

It must be said that at the time, clothes were much more expensive than today, and therefore they had to last.

So, how do you preserve the quality and integrity of your vintage pieces?

Here are some very simple tips, drawn from my own experience as well as from many discussions I have had with people who are experts in the field: our grandmothers.

Read the labels

If the vintage garment has a label, it may contain washing instructions. If you're unsure what the instructions mean, search online to find out the meaning of the different pictograms depending on the garment's age. I've also written an article that will help you date vintage clothing .

Test the color

Before washing an old garment with stain removers, for example, test the color by rubbing a small, hidden area with a damp cloth soaked in the product to see if the color runs. If it does, you can try hand-washing it with a mild soap instead of machine washing. To prevent the fabric from bleeding (color transfer), I recommend washing it in cold water (15°C max).

Hand wash

Hand washing is often the safest way to clean antique clothing. Use lukewarm water (20°C/68°F) and a mild detergent, then rinse thoroughly. Avoid twisting or pulling the garment to prevent damage. This is especially important for silk and wool.
Machine washing: If hand washing isn't an option, you can use a washing machine. Avoid washing vintage clothing with other items that could damage it, and use a delicate cycle with lukewarm water (30°C max). It's also advisable to wash them inside out or in a mesh laundry bag to protect any embellishments.

Drying

Avoid tumble drying antique clothes at all costs, as this can damage or even destroy them. Let them air dry on a hanger in the shade, and for woolens, lay them flat. Also avoid exposing antique clothes to direct sunlight, as this can fade them.

Bathtub washing

This is probably the most unusual washing method, but it's one that every self-respecting vintage hunter uses. A majority of coats or larger garments for which dry cleaning is recommended can actually be washed perfectly well with water. This is the case for trench coats, coats, and wedding dresses, for example. It requires some elbow grease and often several washes. Indeed, after 40 years or more of dry cleaning, the grime has become ingrained and has never truly been rinsed away. I recommend washing with mild soap until the water runs clear and then rinsing thoroughly.

The delicate compositions

Wool

Regardless of the origin of natural wool, it should never be washed above 20°C, as this greatly increases the risk of shrinkage. You can go up to 30°C for items like wool coats when the knit is already very tight. If the stitches are loose and soft, like in an angora sweater, no more than 20°C, let it drip dry in the bathtub or spin it in the washing machine at a maximum of 600 rpm, and dry it flat on a towel. Coats can be hung on hangers. Again, it's a matter of the tightness of the knit.

Silk

It hates water, but! It's perfectly possible to wash it by hand or even in the washing machine. The trick is not to let it soak for too long (5 minutes by hand) and to choose a very short machine cycle (15 minutes) in cold water, 15-20°C max. Use a mild soap and rinse thoroughly. NEVER SPIN. If you use the washing machine, choose a very low spin speed (max 600 rpm). If you wash by hand, take the item out of the water in a ball and let it drip dry naturally. You can then hang it on a hanger.

Leather and fur

These two materials are hydrophobic. They cannot withstand washing in water, either by hand or machine. If the fur trim (collars, cuffs) is removable, it must be taken off before washing the rest of the garment. For fur coats, I recommend taking them to a professional furrier. Leather jackets should be conditioned with a suitable product and waterproofed if necessary (all matte finishes such as suede). If there is a non-removable lining, it is perfectly acceptable to clean the underarms and collar with a mixture of vinegar and baking soda diluted in water, applied with a slightly damp cloth. Be careful not to wet the leather from the inside.

Ironing

Here too, I recommend following the care label instructions. If in doubt, iron the garment inside out or test an inside hem to see if the fabric snags or leaves marks. Generally, everything can be ironed, even silk. You just need to be careful with the iron's temperature.

By following these tips, you can preserve the quality of your vintage clothes to keep them for a long time and perhaps even pass them on to future generations.

Finally, all items at Mes Épaulettes are machine washed at 20-30°, 800 rpm and air dried in the shade on a hanger.