5 Effective Tips for How to Date Vintage Clothing
You found a crepe dress in Granny's wardrobe and you'd like to know when it was made?
Don't move the boat! I find this subject so fascinating that I'm sharing with you today my tips for dating and recognizing true vintage.
The zipper
Invented by a Swiss man (yes, really) in 1893, it was only from around the 1930s that metal fasteners were put on clothes.
It's very important to remember: zippers on dresses were initially viewed very negatively. A woman who could undress too quickly was considered promiscuous. To counter these prejudices, zippers were discreetly sewn onto the side of dresses during the 1930s and 40s. From the 1950s onward, zippers in the back became common, but it wasn't until the 1970s that this became the norm.
Plastic fasteners appeared as early as 1963, and then in 1968, nylon replaced them in almost all clothing.
Handmade or homemade
The sewing machine, popular since the late 19th century, allowed women to sew clothes at home for the whole family.
It's difficult to recognize handmade items without some sewing knowledge. Generally, there are no labels, the finishes may be irregular, and they are often hand-sewn. Sometimes, the garment is unconventionally cut to fit the wearer's body shape.
What helps me a lot in general is sewing, and we'll talk about that right away.
Seams and hems
Hems are the edges of a fabric. To prevent the fabric from fraying, there are several ways to make them.
Before 1940: French seams (top left) allow for hems where the fabric edge is invisible and turned inside out. These are the most beautiful finishes but also the most complex.
1950: Zigzag hems (top right). Pinking shears were invented in 1952. They allow you to cut the fabric in a sawtooth pattern, which prevents it from fraying.
1960: Overlocked hems (bottom). Although the overlock machine dates from the beginning of the last century, it only became affordable for households from the 1960s onwards and replaced all types of hems.
If the hems of your garment have no finish, there's a good chance it dates from before the 1950s.
The labels
Undoubtedly the simplest way to date a garment, if such a method even exists.
Until the 1970s, labels were generally embroidered (logo, shop name, or brand). Italicized text was very often used. During the following two decades, embroidered, colorful labels with whimsical logos also became common.
From the 1970s onwards, we more often encounter more modern prints and fonts.
Care labels are a very good indicator of a garment's era. Nonexistent before 1963, they were generally found at the neck of the garment until the 1980s. When production began in Asia, the label was moved to the bottom of the garment to be hidden. The tumble dryer logo appeared in the 1980s.
Moreover, the place of manufacture is also a good indicator. European or American productions generally date from before the 1980s. Although items made in Japan or China for silk garments, particularly those adorned with sequins or pearls, may date from earlier.
Batch numbers are also good indicators of production year but are quite difficult to decipher.
Skirt cuts, styles and lengths.
Obviously, it is also possible to date according to clothing styles and customs.
I find this technique rather irrelevant since fashion is very often inspired by old trends (Victorian inspiration in the 70s for example).
However, there was no wasp waist before the 1950s (Thank you Christian Dior), no skirt above the ankle before 1925 and then above the knees before the mini skirt of the 1960s.
No synthetic materials before the 1950s and so one.
In short, I could talk about it for hours, but the main point is there.
I hope these tips are helpful, and if you have any more specific questions, I'm happy to answer them here or in the comments below. Ideally, you should bring your garment to the showroom.
